We sell a large assortment of leisure and recreational bikes such as cruisers, cafe, city/urban, hybrids and….

a large assortment of performance, road, triathlon/time-trials, mountain and other cycling types such as law enforcement, BMX and more!

Brands We Proudly Carry and Stand Behind

Accessories

There is a world of equipment and accessories out there to sort through for you and your bicycle. Learn more here about the gear that you need.

 

Pedals.

Basic platform pedals are the most common type of pedals. Designed for any type of footwear (or none at all!), basic platform pedals are commonly found on kids’ bikes as well as adult cruiser and comfort bikes. Rubber or hard plastic are the most frequently used materials for this type of pedal.

Advantages

• Simple to use
• No specialized footwear needed
• Nothing holding you to the bicycle

Disdvantages

• No power transferred to the pedal on the upstroke – i.e., you can push down on platform pedals, but you can’t pull up on them when pedaling.
• Easy for feet to slip off pedals.

Clipless bike pedals

Clipless bike pedals allow the rider’s feet to be attached to the pedals through the use of special shoes. These allow the most efficient transfer of power from the cyclist’s legs to the pedals, as there is no loss of energy. The feet remain attached during all 360 degrees of the pedal rotation. This means power is applied both during the upstroke, pulling the pedals up, as well as on the downstroke, pushing the pedals down.

Advantages

• Maximum transfer of power to the pedals
• A complete feeling of attachment to the bike

Disdvantages

• Specialized shoes needed to utilize clipless pedals
• Learning how to click in and out of the pedals can be challenging. And it may take a while to remember to click out of the pedals as you approach a stop. Most people who use clipless pedals have fallen over at intersections at least once when they first started riding because they forgot to remove their feet before it was too late. I know I did.
• Having to frequently click in and out of the pedals can suck the joy out of a ride through town, particularly if the pedals you have are a challenge to use. Certain cycling shoes and pedal combinations can be more difficult to use than others.

 

Bicycle Clothes and Gear

Bicycle Shorts

Why Wear Bike Shorts?

Once you get over your initial, often negative, reaction to the look of bike shorts, you’ll be surprised by the comfort and functionality the comes with the tight spandex shorts. The main purpose of bike shorts is to provide comfort during long bike rides. Bike shorts are designed specifically for the needs of a cyclist. These needs include padding in the right places, strategically places seams, tight-fitting, flexible materials like Lycra and spandex that reduce air resistance and allow a full range of motion on the bike, and the right amount of breathability and wind block.

How to Choose Bike Shorts

The most important features of bike shorts include a lack of seams in the crotch and extra padding to reduce chaffing and discomfort while riding. Bike shorts are also made from flexible fabrics that move with you and don’t bind while pedaling.

Bike Shorts – Buying Tips

There are a variety of bike short styles and designs, including those that look like regular shorts with a padded inner liner. The best way to choose the right bike shorts for you is to decide the type of riding you intend to to most often and buy shorts for that purpose.

• First Things First – Keep in mind that bike shorts are meant to be worn without underwear.
• Set a Budget – Bike shorts can range from $20 to $100, so try to set a budget before you shop.
• Tight or Baggy – Consider tight-fitting race shorts if the majority of your ride time is fast cycling on the bike. This offers the most comfort and aerodynamic fit. If you spend time off the bike, touring or commuting by bicycle, need pockets, or are more concerned with the look of the shorts than your speed on the bike, you might want to look for “baggy shorts” with an inner liner. Some people just carry along a pair of loose fitting shorts to slip on when they aren’t on the bike.
• Type of Padding – Bike short padding is generally made from chamois or a synthetic material. Both offer benefits, but chamois tends to need a bit more care than the synthetic linings. The padding also ranges from thick to thin, with triathlete shorts having the thinnest pad so athletes can swim, bike and run in the same shorts. Bike shorts are also made with a pad that is designed specifically for men and women so choose accordingly.
• Number of Panels – Less expensive shorts usually have fewer panels of fabric, while the most expensive and form-fitting bike shorts can have up to eight panels. They all fit a bit differently, so try on several styles.
• Waist Band or Bib – You can buy bib shorts that offer shoulder straps, rather than an elastic waist band. Some people find this style the most comfortable after hours of riding bent forward at the waist.
• Inseam Length – Shorts come in a variety of inseam lengths. The shorter shorts work great for spin class, triathlons and a good tan, but most cyclists like an inseam that is just above the knee. This is long enough to stay in place and prevent chaffing of the inner thigh on the saddle. In cold weather, consider a knicker style bike short that covers the knees for added warmth or even a full tight that goes to the ankles.
• Fabric – Bike short fabric can be thick or thin, sheer and shiny or textured and made of wool, CoolMax®, Lycra®, spandex and a variety of other wicking materials. Think of the conditions you ride in most frequently – is it hot and dry, warm and sticky or cold weather? Buy fabrics that work in your climate.
• Color – These days, the sky is the limit in bike shorts colors, patterns and designs. Do you want the traditional black or do you want to be a bit flashy or support a brand or team? This is where you can let your personality shin through.

Dressing in Layers

You don’t necessarily need special clothes to ride a bike. But having the right attire can make the ride more fun and comfortable. Learn more here about what to look for in different pieces of cycling wear, as well as reviews of the best and most popular products.

So some well-meaning person tells you that to stay warm in cooler weather, you’ve got to “dress in layers.” Well, what is that supposed to mean? Every time someone talks about layers I think about onions and how starting at the outside, you can see the distinct layers that can be peeled away to gradually expose the core. Layering your clothes follows the same principle, only without the strong smell and all the crying. Unless you’ve been on a particularly difficult ride.

When you dress in layers, you generally have three different types of clothing on your body, each with a distinct purpose. Let’s walk through them one by one and with each, talk a bit about what you’re trying to accomplish.

Base Layer

The base layer is the one closest to your body. Its purpose is to help you stay warm but not get too hot, and most importantly, should serve as a way to carry perspiration away from your core. Think high-tech long underwear. Believe it or not, wool is an excellent material for this, and some synthetic materials are suitable as well.

 

Middle Layer

The purpose of the middle layer is to insulate and at the same time to still continue to move moisture away from your body. This layer is “fluffier” than the base layer if that makes any sense, keeping warmer air in close to your body yet allowing it to still circulate around you so that you don’t get too warm in periods of high activity.

Of the three layers, this one will vary the most depending on the temperature and the individual person. In addition to the actual air temp, your level of activity plus the amount of sunlight and wind combined with your level of fitness and metabolism will all factor into how much insulation you will require in this middle layer.

Polyester fleece is a good choice for an insulating layer. Wool turtlenecks or vests also work well. Some good examples of middle layer clothing are the all wool Castelli Armando Long Sleeve Jersey.

Outer Shell

The outer shell primarily serves as a windbreaker and also works to thwart any precipitation you may encounter. This layer’s first job is to keep you dry; the warmth you’ll experience comes from what’s underneath. The outer shell should be breathable to help get rid of the moisture you’re generating through perspiration; strategically placed vents (such as under the arms) are a big help to this end. Nylon is the most common material for lightweight outer shell garments; heavier ones are going to be made from GoreTex or another one of the patented fabrics. A lightweight example of this type of outerwear is the Louis Garneau Winddry Jacket; the Cannondale Hydro Jacket is one that runs a bit heavier.

Enjoy Riding in Any Weather

Every day is a great day for riding when you pair this principle of layers with appropriate coverings for your hands, head and feet. With the right gear you can safely and comfortably ride on days when the temperature dips well below freezing and take your bike out in weather that before you might never have considered for riding.

 

 

Gloves

What’s the point of cycling gloves? Somebody asked me that recently in that tone of voice that implied bike gloves are one of those accessories that are more about image than substance. I mean, c’mon. Do you really need gloves for riding a bike?

Actually, many cyclists find that gloves are an important part of their gear and wouldn’t be found on the bike without them. Let’s take a look at the seven main functions that bike gloves perform.

1. Improved Grip and Control

You know that being out on a bike can make you pretty sweaty – especially if it is one of those warm and humid days. And that means your hands are wet, too. Like clothes with wicking technology, a good pair of gloves will help keep your hands dry, which means that you can maintain a better grip on the handlebars.

The gloves also serve to trap the sweat that would otherwise be likely to drip into your shifters. And over time, moisture – and especially perspiration because of its high mineral content – can cause those components to deteriorate.

2. Comfort and Protection for Your Skin

If you’ve ever spent a couple of hours or more on a bike, you probably realized that, somewhat surprisingly, cycling can be pretty hard on your hands. From the constant pressure on your palms, to the wear on your fingers from running your shifters through the range of gears, it doesn’t take long for calluses or blisters to develop. A pair of bike gloves can give your skin the extra layer of protection you need to be comfortable, even on the longest ride.

3. Shock Absorption

You’ll notice that many pairs of gloves on the market today have some type of cushioning, such as gel padding, etc., built into the palms. The reason is that gloves with this padding serve a very useful function in absorbing shock from the road that would otherwise be transferred to the rider.

Think about it this way. When you’re riding, whether on a road or mountain bike, and you hit some bumps in the road, the shock and impact from that carries straight up from the front fork through your arms and into your shoulders. That’s why you may be achy in that area or your neck and back after a longer ride. When wearing bike gloves, the cushions in the palms act as shock absorbers, helping to dampen some of the energy being transmitted up from the bike before it gets into your body. Not only will this help the ride feel smoother as you go, but it will also help reduce those aches you feel when you are done.

4. Warmth

Another reason many cyclists wear bike gloves is to keep their hands warm. (Bike gloves are still gloves, after all!) For cool weather riding, glove choices can range from regular bike gloves that just help break the wind, to glove liners that help add layers. For extremely cold weather riding are products like thick “lobster claw” gloves or Moose Mitts, which are thick, well-insulated mittens that attach to the handlebars of your bike and cover your regular biking gloves. This type of gear allows you to still grip the handlebars and work the brakes and gear shifters like normal.

5. Protection in Case of a Crash

What do most people do as they start to fall? They put their hands out to try and catch themselves, to break their impact as they hit the ground. If you’ve ever fallen like this, you know that you can really tear up your palms when they go skidding across pavement or rocks. A pair of bike gloves can give you the protection you need to save your hands and keep the gravel and grit out of your hands and on the street where it belongs. They may be completely shredded when you take stock of things after the wreck, but tearing up a pair of gloves is a whole lot better than wrecking your hands.

Granted, this is a secondary benefit of wearing bike gloves, but still a very important one. Think about it this way: if you knew you were going to wipe out, would you rather be wearing gloves or not have them on?

6. Wiping Your Nose

It mainly happens when you ride in colder temps. My buddy calls ‘em “snot rockets.” You know what it is: you’re on your bike and your nose starts running. So what do you do? Most of us don’t keep a hankie handy to pull out for a delicate toot. You wipe your nose on the back of your thumb, that’s what you do. And glove makers have taken this into account.

If you notice, many pairs of bike gloves have a fleece lining on the back of the thumb. That’s exactly what this is piece of material is for. One hand off the handle bar, one second, one wipe. Problem solved.

Style

On top of all these other features, wearing a pair of snazzy bike gloves can make you look and feel cool. It’s like being a kid and getting a new pair of sneakers: instantly you feel like you can run a lot faster. And there is nothing wrong with buying a pair of bike gloves for this reason alone. Image is everything, right?

So, if you’ve never ridden with a pair of bike gloves, give ‘em a try. There are lots of things that can do to help your riding. And at the least, you’ll find yourself (like the kid with the new shoes), riding twice as fast as before you had gloves. At the very least, you’ll be so cool, it’ll feel like you are!

 

• Bar ends – extensions at the end of straight handlebars to allow for multiple hand positions.
• Bar plugs aka end caps – Handlebar plug – plugs for the ends of handlebars.
• Basket – cargo carrier.
• Bell – an audible device for warning pedestrians and other cyclists.
• Belt-drive – alternate to chain-drive
• Bottle cage – a holder for a water bottle
• Bottom bracket – The bearing system that the pedals (and cranks) rotate around. Contains a spindle to which the crankset is attached and the bearings themselves. There is a bearing surface on the spindle, and ones on the cups that thread into the frame. The bottom bracket may be overhaulable (an adjustable bottom bracket) or not overhaulable (a cartridge bottom bracket). The bottom bracket fits inside the bottom bracket shell, which is part of the bicycle frame.
• Brake – Brakes are used to stop the bicycle. Rim brakes and disc brakes are operated by brake levers, which are mounted on the handlebars. Coaster brakes are operated by pedaling backward.
• Braze-on – a fitting protruding from a frame to provide attachment, typically for cable housings or tire pumps and similar accessories.
• Cable guide – A fitting below the bottom bracket which guides a piece of bare inner bowden cable around a corner.
• Cable – a metal cable enclosed in part by a metal and plastic housing that is used to connect a control, such as a brake or shifting lever, to the device it activates.
• Cartridge bearing – A type of bearing that is not user-serviceable, but must be replaced as a unit.
• Cassette – a group of stacked sprockets on the rear wheel of a bicycle with a rear derailleur.
• Chain – A system of interlinking pins, plates and rollers that transmits power from the front sprocket(s) to the rear sprocket(s).
• Chainguard – Cover for the entire chain either totally encasing (sometimes with oil in) or ‘incomplete’. Either way, designed to keep clothing from fouling the chain.
• Chainring – (one of the) front gear(s), attached to a crank.
• Crankset – composed of cranks and chainrings
• Cyclocomputer – an electronic accessory that measures and displays instantaneous and cumulative speed and distance. Often provides other measurements such as heart rate.
• Derailleur – an assembly of levers, usually cable actuated, that moves the chain between sprockets on a cassette or chainring assembly.
• Fender – curved pieces of metal or plastic above the tires which catch and redirect road spray thrown up by the tires, allowing the rider to remain relatively clean. Also known as mudguards.
• Ferrule – a metal or plastic sleeve used to terminate the end of a cable housing
• Fork – a mechanical assembly that integrates a bicycle’s frame to its front wheel and handlebars, allowing steering by virtue of its steerer tube.
• Fork end – paired slots on a fork or frame at which the axle of the wheel is attached. See also: Dropout.
• Frame – the mechanical core of a bicycle, the frame provides points of attachment for the various components that make up the machine. The term is variously construed, and can refer to the base section, always including the bottom bracket, or to base frame, fork, and suspension components such as a shock absorber.
• Freehub – a ratcheting assembly onto which a cog or cassette is mounted that allows the bicycle to coast without the pedals turning.
• Freewheel – a ratcheting assembly that incorporates one or more cogs and allows the bicycle to coast without the pedals turning..
• Handlebar – a lever attached, usually using an intermediary stem, to the steerer tube of the fork. Allows steering and provides a point of attachment for controls and accessories.
• Handlebar tape – a tape wound around dropped handlebars so as to provide padding and grip, usually cork or cloth, sometimes foam rubber.
• Headset or head set – the bearings that form the interface between the frame and fork steerer tube
• Hood – The rubber brake lever covering on bikes with drop style handle bars
• Hub – the core of a wheel – contains bearings and, in a traditional wheel, has drilled flanges for attachment of spokes.
• Inner tube – a bladder that contains air to inflate a tire. Has a Schrader, ‘Woods’/'Dunlop’ or Presta valve for inflation and deflation.
• Kickstand – a folding attachment used to park a bicycle upright. Usually mounts to frame near bottom bracket, sometimes near rear dropouts.
• Locknut – a nut designed not to loosen due to vibration.
• Lockring – a ring, usually metal, of varying design, that serves to retain a component in place.
• Luggage carrier – any accessory equipment designed to carry tools, gear or cargo.
• Master link – a bicycle chain accessory that allows convenient removal and reconnection of an installed bicycle chain without the need for a chain tool.
• Nipple – a specialized nut that most commonly attaches a spoke to a wheel rim. In some systems, it provides attachment to the hub.
• Pannier – cloth zippered storage bags that mount to sides of luggage racks. Pronounced pan-ear, or pan-yer (an old English word, not French).
• Pedal – mechanical interface between foot and crank arm. There are two general types – one secures the foot with a mechanical clamp or cage and the other has no connection to lock the foot to the pedal.
• Quick release – a skewer with a lever on one end that loosens when the lever is flipped. Used for releasing wheels and seat posts.
• Rack – a rack that attaches behind the seat, usually with stays to the rear dropouts, that serves as a general carrier.
• Reflector – reflects light to make bicycle evident when illuminated by headlights of other vehicles. Usually required by law but held in disdain by many cyclists.
• Rim – That part of a wheel to which the tire is attached and often forms part of the braking mechanism.
• Rotor – a device that allows the handlebars and fork to revolve indefinitely without tangling the rear brake cable.
• Saddle – also seat. What you sit on.
• Seat – also saddle. What you sit on.
• Seat Rails – a metal framework over which saddle covering is stretched. The seat post attaches to the seat rails by means of a clamp.
• Seat tube – the roughly vertical tube in a bicycle frame running from the seat to the bottom bracket.
• Seat bag – a small storage accessory hung from the back of a seat.
• Seatpost – a post that the seat is mounted to. It slides into the frame’s seat tube and is used to adjust ride height depending how far into the seat tube it is inserted.
• Shifter – see also Shimano Total Integration, Campagnolo ErgoPower, and SRAM Double Tap, three competing methods of combined shifter and brake lever controls
• Spindle – an axle around which a pedal rotates – threaded at one end to screw into crank arms.
• Spoke – connects wheel rim to hub. Usually wire with one end swaged to form a head and one threaded end. A typical wheel has 36 spokes.
• Steering tube – a tube on top of a fork that is inserted through frame and serves as an axle by means of which bicycle can be steered.
• Stem – a bracket used to attach handlebars to steerer tube of fork. Usually secured by pinch bolts.
• Tire – as in common usage. Usually pneumatic. A tubular tire is glued to the wheel rim; most tires use tubes, but tubeless tires and rims are increasingly common. Know What Size Tire You Need – Dimension, Width, Tread Type, Durability of the Tire, Weight of the Tire.
• Wheel – as in common usage. Traditionally and most commonly spoked.

 

Bike Racks & Hitches Sales & Professional Installations

Our experienced personnel will help you with tips for choosing the right bike rack or hitch for you. The wrong rack or hitch could be a safety hazard, scratch your vehicle, or make it easy to steal the bike.

The objective is simple. You want to carry your bicycle on your vehicle, the key to choosing the right bike rack is accurately defining your needs and assessing your current vehicles.

Bike racks: Tips for choosing the right one for you

Professional People, Training, and Tools. Your Lifetime Bike Shop!

Our reputation for professionalism and expertise comes from the quality of our staff. Our staff has many years of experience, all of our employees are avid and active riders.

Our mechanics also play a vital role in the quality of the finished product that you purchase. Our mechanics are the best in the business. They are year-round, full-time professionals who love bicycles; it shows in the pride they take in assembling and servicing your bike. The confidence and respect others have for us is demonstrated repeatedly by how often we are asked to give technical support at races, triathlons, and charity rides all over the area.

We spend a minimum of two hours putting your bike together. Frame and fork alignments are checked first. Then every bolt is removed and greased, cables and housing are cut to correct length, bottom bracket and headset are adjusted, and wheels trued.

Results.

Less servicing down the road, more time having fun riding your bike.